Monday, January 7, 2008

Cuba and Mexico

A NOTE ABOUT MEXICO
I still not had a chance to put anything of a meaningful entry together for quite some time, so here goes from the depths of an English winter.. yay.
It will be of little surprise that the two places which have left the largest impressions have been Mexico and Cuba, respectively, the largest city in the world and the perhaps that with one of the most different socio-political systems which I have had the pleasure of encountering.
Pyramids are very cool especially when they themselves are again a repetition of layers of history, more and more layers being excavated one at a time. The altitude makes for a but more panting than you may otherwise expect given their smaller than expected size, not to say that they were not impressive, that they were, though my photos will tell a better story than I.
I was fortunate to be again hosted by a great guy who made my trip to Mexico a real life experience I hope to repeat with company.
I miss Mexican food!!

A NOTE ABOUT CUBA
So how about those Cubans then eh? There is a long list of things which makes me appreciate to some degree the difficulties of being Cuban and virtues of been fortunate to have been born a New Zealander at the beginning of the 1980s. Military dictatorship, absence of free press, lack of freedom of association, no freedom of speech, no freedom to travel, shortages of everything non essential and a general lack of all the kinds of freedoms we have which we take for granted and allow to be eroded by legislation like that which enables surveillance of communications and detention without charge.

Hanging out with locals is great, but scams and people with no qualms about taking advantage of a generous tourist are all too present. The police also don't like locals hanging out with tourists, so if your local buddy asks you to walk a few feet behind when police are near don't be surprised or offended, it could save them from quite a few hassles.

Want to earn more than US$10 a month, don't for the state in Cuba.. if you could that is.. but it is not like anyone lives of their salary anyway. Whether it's bribes, Party back-handers, cottage industry, illegal restaurants, or fleasing tourists for banana leaf cigars everyone has another income stream which enables them to afford a little more than their subsistence essentials.

Amongst all of that there are so many fantastic people, who open their homes and hearts (at least once you have their trust) and will offer you what ever they can to be a good host. A thick, sweet shot of espresso in the rooftop kitchen of an old couple in central Santiago De Cuba drove that home good and proper. Their chickens hopping in and out off the rooftop patio as the paster crumbles away from the walls and a picture book of the city pre-revolution, family photos and broken conversation aided by my illegal guide trying to make a few bucks on the side on his weekend off.

So many memorable moments, far too many for this blog.


My five days in a seaside village, meeting a Canadian ship Pilot and his young Cuban wife and her parents.

The bustling, slowly bustling, city of Havana, no wonder it is a UNESCO world heritage site, as with the rest of the country, very little changed since the 1950s, the big old American cars, the Spanish colonial architecture. Facades of collapsed buildings and, other propped up with whatever is available.

The guy with the Internet connection set up in an entirely separate and empty flat because it was "safer" that way and a satellite dish disguised in a plastic box on his balcony.

The "I need milk for my baby" scam. Now that is a rough one.

Back-door bargaining for a bottle of 15yr Cuban rum

Being invited to check out the chanting, dumb beating Afro-Cuban celebrations for the night of San Lazaro, the saint or divinity depending on your school.

Being taught how to salsa by a middle-aged Cuban woman in a bar then asked for money for the lesson.

Hanging out with some locals and being taken to check out some fantastic local bands in Havana.

Spending more on writing an email than on eating all day

Having your checks in baggage broken into by airport staff and having your ipod stolen
So I have now lost all my romantic notions about this wonderfully beautiful country, but gained some what more admiration for the people.

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